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Quality of light is a
significant component of making a quality
photograph. Backlit scenes, such as this, require
good knowledge of metering techniques and manual
exposure settings.
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In the last
column, I presented a number of definitions pertinent to
determining proper exposure of an image.
Before
discussing the mechanics of setting exposure, by selecting
appropriate aperture and shutter combinations, it is important
to understand the basic qualities of light as relates to
photography. In this column, I limit the discussion of light to
ambient, or natural, reflected light. Artificial light
introduced by the photographer, flash for example, and direct
light, the sun directed at the camera lens for example, are left
for another column.
The
properties of light of interest to photographers are intensity,
quality, direction and contrast.
All objects
reflect light. It is this reflected light that is captured on
film to form an image. Those objects in a scene reflecting a
high intensity light are brighter than those parts of a scene
reflecting less intense light.
Intensity
is, therefore, a measure of the brightness of available light.
As
mentioned, all objects reflect light, but rarely does an object
reflect 100% of the light that is striking it. If that were so,
it would indeed be a very bright world to live in. Sort of like
always having your pupils dilated at the eye doctors. Properties
of objects determine the percent of light reflected yielding its
color and brightness. A white shirt, for example, reflects more
light than a black pair of pants.
It is lights
intensity that is measured by a camera meter. The meter measures
the total intensity of the reflected light entering through the
lens and striking the film plane. The meter then calculates an
appropriate combination of aperture and shutter to render a
proper exposure of a scene.
Most
tourists take a ride along the Kancamagus Highway in the White
Mountains during foliage season in the middle of the day,
thinking that the best light is when the sun is overhead. “Make
sure the sun is over your shoulder,” we were told when taking
pictures. Turns out, that is when the quality of light is at its
worst. Commonly called hard light, this type of light creates a
lot of contrast; some trees are in bright light while others are
cast in shadow. Return to the same scene on an overcast day and
notice that there are no hard shadows. Being able to recognize
the quality of light and when it best matches your visualization
of a scene is an important step on the way to taking good
photographs.
Quality of
light is impossible to control. When you arrive at a scene, what
you see is what you get for light. I remember many a sunrise
excursion where the light just wasn’t worth it. Some of the
hardest work that goes into making a photograph is visualizing a
composition and returning to the scene again and again until the
light is right. You know you are on your way to becoming a
photographer when you decide to leave without taking a picture
because the light just isn’t right. Light at sunrise is
different than light at sunset. Mid day sun is hardly ever worth
it. Overcast days provide soft light with minimal shadows. You,
the photographer, decide when the light is right.
The source
of ambient light, usually the sun, is positioned either to the
front, back, side or top of a scene. A photograph can be taken
with the light source at any direction relative to a scene, but
the look and feel of the image will be different. Keep in mind
that light direction is relative to the subject, not the camera.
For example, front light is light that hits the subject from the
front. This is the kind of light we all think we need. Front
light usually makes the subject squint and the subject, or
scene, is blasted by the light, leaving no texture or dimension
in the resulting image. Backlighting, coming from behind the
subject, tends to render the subject in silhouette. Side light
provides the most texture and the most dimension, adding depth
and feel to the subject. The photographer is usually able to
control the source of light by moving the cameras’ angle of view
relative to the light source. Is your subject backlit? Simply
move to the other side. Want your scene side lit? Move your
angle of view until the light source is at a 90 degree angle to
you and the subject.
All scenes
contain objects that have different reflectance values. Contrast
is a measure of the range of brightness reflected by the darkest
object and brightest object in a scene. This is easy to see
through your viewfinder. Point your camera at a day lit scene.
With your camera set to automatic, look through the viewfinder
as you move the camera around the scene. Notice how the
suggested aperture and/or shutter values change. The change
represents different reflectance values in a scene. If the
reflectance values vary considerably then there is a great
amount of contrast.
Contrast is
an important property of light and, unfortunately, has different
effects on pictures depending on the type of film, or digital
sensor, you are using. Different films have different contrast
properties as do digital sensors. An important property of film
is its ability to show detail in a specific contrast range. That
is, what are the brightest brights and the darkest darks in
which some texture or detail is visible? At some point the
bright parts go pure white with no detail and the darkest darks
go black with no detail.
In the next
column we learn how to measure contrast and intensity of
reflected light and convert that measurement into exposure.
Until then, keep shooting.
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